12-13 April '04

From Nong Kai at the Thai border we took the slow train to Khorat (Nakhon Rachasima), passing the smallest train stations we ever saw: a bamboo shed in the middle of the fields!

The water pistols of the conductors in the train indicated that the water festival, celebration of the lunar new year in this region, was coming near. During three days (13-15 April) the Thai (& Lao & Burmese & Yunnanese) throw water at each other in anticipation of the rain to come, but we had no idea what to expect from it.

We used Khorat as a base to see Phimai, an old Khmer city. On our way there, everything remained quiet on the morning of the first day of the water festival, but once arrived in Phimai, the tension was rising and we caught a few drops.

We visited the Prasat Hin Phimai, a very nice Angkor style temple, skilfully restored in a well-kept park. Once back on the street we, "farang" (foreigner), soon became the favourite targets of bucket loads of water. We found short relieve in a shop, kind enough to provide us with plastic bags to protect our belongings. Moreover, we found some water pistols to defend ourselves but it was nothing in comparison to the vast water flow directed at us. "The wetter you get, the happier you'll be" seems to be the general idea behind the splashing.

We headed for the Sai Ngam Banyan, a holy multi-trunk tree covering a small island where everybody went. A parade of pick-up trucks went by, loaded with people and tons of water in the back, merrily splashing water by the bucket and whishing you a happy new year by smudging your face with baby powder. Once there we were soaked to the bone and white with the many wishes we received.

At the end of the afternoon we tried to dry up a bit in the sun before stepping into the, to our horror, air-conditioned bus.

14-23 April '04

Our trip to Bangkok's airport remained unexpectedly dry but safely from behind the train windows we witnessed that even the fire brigades joined the water festivities with their fire hoses and water canons! We dropped off Alain at the airport and the parting of Snowy, Plukje and Rendy was heartbreaking.

Then the two of us plunged into Bangkok in search for a place to stay. The chaos was terrific! The airport bus got blocked in a huge traffic jam and we had to "swim" for the rest of the way. The wetness and whiteness was worse than in Phimai and even the police, still making a faint attempt to keep the traffic going, were not spared from talc and water. Everywhere people partied on the street and in the back of cars, giving an impression of a Brazilian Carnival in the rain. It was marvellous!

We are now in "stand-by mode", preparing our next, originally unplanned step: Myanmar (the new name for Burma). In between the arrangements for visa and plane tickets (overland is not an option), we enjoyed the pleasures of a big city. There is no lack of cinema's, shopping centres and cultural attractions here to pass the time until Friday 23^rd, when we fly to Yangon (Rangoon)!!!